The first step was to remove the speaker from the cabinet. You can
see the two contacts on the tweeter. One contact is the actual metal
perforated grill of the speaker (ground). The other is a loose and
floppy silver contact (positive 170 volts DC through a 100k
resistor! It will bite you, Ouch!).
With so much DC on this speaker one must ensure cleanliness and the
integrity of the internal components do not create a short circuit.
The 100K resistor would protect this particular radio but this is no guarantee
in other radios. |
A Dremel Moto tool with a sandpaper disk made quick work of the formed
plastic retainers that hold the assembly together. Note:
Leave as much plastic as possible. It will be re-flared with a hot
soldering iron to hold the assembly together. An alternative is to drill out the rivets and use tiny machine nuts and
bolts to hold the assembly together. Use Glipt, Loctite or old
fingernail polish to lock the nuts to the threads. This assembly
vibrates since it is an electrical to physical transducer to vibrate air
waves. |
This
picture shows the internal components of the tweeter.
- Lower right is the silver contact that has
significant corrosion on it.
- The upper left is the delicate extremely thin plastic
like membrane. It has a conductive coating on one side that is
press fit to the silver contact mentioned above.
- The silver item in the middle is the perforated
grill. It has a deteriorated pieces of foam on the right side
that pressed the membrane to the silver positive contact.
- The lower left brown item has some dry rotted foam
that presses the membrane against the perforated grill.
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Problem identified - Deteriorated Foam.
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This was the main problem. Deteriorated foam that causes a poor
or no "press fit" connection between the silver contact and the
membrane.

- Seen here is the corroded contact, the deteriorated piece of foam and
the cellophane tape that I think insulates the positive contact from
the negative perforated grill.
- I have seen this type of foam stain, corrode and ruin what ever it
is in contact with including dial scale printing.
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This was the second problem with the speaker. The foam corroded
or coated the silver contact with crud.
Burnish
and clean the silver positive contact with fine grit sandpaper.

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This
was to a lesser degree, the third problem. This foam backer was not
pressing the membrane close to the negative electrode (the perforated
grill).
Cut
out a new replacement piece of foam that holds the membrane against the
perforated grill
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Reassembly - Put it back together
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Assemble in order:
- Perforated Grill
- Electrical tape
- Double sided sticky foam tape from Radio Shack.
- Membrane. Be careful to maintain the orientation
of the conductive side true to the disassembly.
- Place the silver positive contact in the plastic
cone.
- And replace the brown deteriorated foam with your new
piece that you cut or fabricated.
- Press the assembly together and flair the plastic rivets
with a hot soldering iron.
|
This picture shows the assembled speaker. The new foam piece is the
other half of the foam inside the speaker. It was twice as thick as
the original. I used an X-Acto blade to slice the thickness in half.
Also seen is:
- Electrical tape to replace the cellophane tape.
- Double sided sticky foam tape to press the silver contact to the
membrane and
- The deteriorated foam used to press the membrane against the
perforated grill. The brown foam broke apart into powder when I
picked it from the speaker structural cone.
|
The
rebuilt tweeter on the Emud sounding Great! The output is
significantly greater (louder) than before it was rebuilt as compared when
wiggling the previously loose positive contact.
I can't properly reproduce the sound on this web page so a hearty
"Thumb-up" will have to do. |
This is a flat square electrostatic tweeter from a Grundig 3035. It had a corroded
contact that is press fit against the conductive vibrating membrane. Disassembly
and sanding off of the corrosion where the contact touches the membrane is all
that was needed.
Use a hobby grinder to take off the tops of the melted plastic rivets |
Test the side with out lead wires by prying up. |
You may need a little more grinding to remove the retainer side with the
lead wires. |
Lay all the part out on your bench. The white material seems to be
wool. That is used to keep the conductive membrane close to the
metal screen. The wool is much better than the foam rubber. |
Identify the corroded contact the is press fit against the membrane and a
strip of foil seen on the right of this picture. Use sand paper or
your favorite burnishing technique to remove the corrosion. |
Reassemble the unit and test before melting the rivets. |
Melt the rivets, use glue or hot melt glue to hold the tweeter
together. |
Sounds Great! |